A closer look at the fibres, breeds and qualities behind our knits
Dear All,
When we talk about wool, it can be easy to think of it as one material. But wool is really a much big family of fibres, each with its own character.
Over the years at Oubas, we’ve worked with a number of different wools and natural fibres, and one of the things I enjoy most is understanding what makes each one different.
Different breeds produce different fibres, with variations in fineness, length, softness, strength and natural colour. The conditions in which the sheep live, and the way the fibre is spun and prepared, also influence the yarn that arrives into our studio.
All of these things matter when we are choosing a yarn for a garment.
Fine merino, for example, has a particularly soft handle and fine fibre, making it lovely for pieces that sit close to the skin. It can be light and breathable while still providing warmth, which makes it incredibly versatile. Lambswool has a different character. Taken from a young sheep’s first shearing, it has a softness and warmth that makes it particularly suited to cosy autumn and winter pieces.
Then there is British wool, which is something particularly close to my heart.
We work with British wool because of its connection to our own landscape and the farming communities within it. British wool encompasses different breeds, each producing a fibre with its own qualities. Some are finer and softer, while others are stronger, more robust or naturally more textured.
It can have a little more character and variation than some of the finer wools, but that is part of what makes it special. There is something so special about seeing those natural qualities remain part of the finished yarn rather than trying to make every fibre completely uniform.
For me, choosing a yarn is never simply about finding the softest or finest fibre.
It is about considering what the finished garment needs to be.
How will it feel against the skin? How much warmth should it provide? Does it need to hold its shape? Will it be worn as a lightweight layer or something to reach for on a cold winter morning? Sometimes we want softness and delicacy; at other times, we want texture, structure and a little more resilience.
The season plays a part too.
As autumn arrives, I find myself naturally drawn towards warmer, more tactile yarns. There is something instinctive about wanting to reach for wool again as the days become shorter and the air becomes colder.
That is one of the things I love about working with natural fibres. They have their own characteristics, and rather than trying to make every garment feel the same, we can work with those differences.
The breed, the fibre, the spinning and ultimately the knitting all contribute to the character of the finished piece.
And perhaps that is the most interesting thing about getting to know wool: the more you learn about it, the less it feels like a single material and the more it becomes a collection of stories, each with its own character and place.
Warm wishes,
Kate